Shangri La in Baghdad

"Palace Poolside," that is where my residence in Baghdad was located. Although it is probably self-explanatory, the "palace" refers to Saddam's Republican Palace, and the "poolside" refers to its location just about a hundred meters from Saddam's pool which is directly behind the palace.

My trailer was actually two trailers with a bathroom in the middle. Inside each trailer was space for two people to live, but I am one of the lucky ones in Iraq who can ask to have a single room without a roommate. My air-conditioned trailer also had two wooden free standing "closets," a television with about thirty satellite channels, and a refrigerator. It was like being back in my college dorm room, and in spite of the twin sized bed, I didn't mind "roughing it."

My workdays were spent in the Republican Palace where our office was located. I'm prohibited from showing photographs, but trust me when I say that Saddam had an amazing penchant for tacky furniture and fixtures. Lots of gold and gaudy colors. Anyway, it was not a bad place to wander around. I especially enjoyed the ceiling mural of the SCUD missiles (about five of them) flying up into the blue sky, defending Saddam's Iraq.

The pool was a refreshing respite from the desert heat (and indoor air conditioning). Water volleyball, water basketball, and karaoke are all forms of recreation at the pool. A lot of people would take their food from the DFAC (dining facility) and eat dinner around the pool. Additionally, there were several barbecues surrounding the pool which were always being used to celebrate someones impending departure or arrival.

When my clothing was dirty (which was quite often when my bag was still lost), I had the option of doing it myself in the 24 hr. self-service laundry right outside my "hooch" (trailer). The better option, of course, was to drop it off at the wash and fold laundry. They would wash your articles and also wash and press long sleeve business shirts. The shirts were returned on hangers in plastic. It was better than the dry cleaner near our house in Milwaukee. Especially since it was free.

During my time in the IZ (international zone) I went out to dinner at both an Iraqi and a Chinese restaurant. The Iraqi place was great, the Chinese place disgusting. There is an ability (apparently) to get almost anything you want in the IZ if you are determined enough. There are several bars run by different organization and several liquor stores which cater to the non-military crowd in the IZ. We had beers on several occasions, including at a going away barbecue by the pool.

The DFAC served some pretty good food. At breakfast, there are eggs made to order, fresh fruit, juices, and all types of breakfast foods from around the world. Some nights for dinner we had crab legs (snow crab), prime rib, steak, there are several types of salads, a salad bar, soups, and any type of dessert you could ask for : cookies, cakes, pies, and about ten flavors of Baskin-Robbins ice cream.

All in all, I would have to say that life in Baghdad was not nearly as rough as I thought it would be. I mean in some ways it is better than home (i.e. pools, palaces, free laundry, prepared meals). If Irene and Guinness could have come with me, I'm not sure we would ever leave.